ah, praha.

I'd like to preface this post by answering a question that I'm sure will nag you throughout this post: yes, I am in fact obsessed with Prague. I love it. My friend Kate was telling me about how much she loved Switzerland and she used a phrase that I'd like to steal to let you know just how much I loved this place: it was like a movie set. Every corner you turned down was more beautiful than the last. I plan to go back very soon; I have to, because I just didn't get to see everything that I wanted to. I hope all of you get the chance to visit the beautiful city one day.

I'll try and limit these to the most important, but right now that seems impossible. There are just too many. 

1. The architecture. Again, I wish I knew more about architecture to be able to better appreciate every building I saw, but honestly it's not necessary for Prague. It's just so old and so gorgeous, and in a way that's completely different than Rome, that you can't help but be awestruck at it's beauty. Again, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. I can't. I just...I can't. 

2. The food. Yes, it's all heavy and probably has more calories than I'd care to know, but it's DELICIOUS. Everywhere we ate was superb, minus a place called Lokal that the lady from Agent Provacateur told us about. We trekked starving halfway across the city to get to their second location after the first one was full, and the meat I ordered was half the size of my palm. Huge letdown for an empty stomach. But it was still scrumptious. Alternatively, my favorite place had to be Choco Cafe. Lenci, Katie and I went there our first morning and it the cutest little place with pretty lighting and soft cushy chairs and couches. The wafting smell of chocolate chip muffins fresh out of the oven didn't hurt either. The three of us grabbed a table and we each ordered a muffin and me, a choco cafe, Lenci and Katie, hot chocolates. Everything was superb, but apparently hot chocolate is taken literally in Prague as hot. chocolate. Specifically, there was no milk, just warm chocolate in liquid form. At first I was disappointed I didn't order one as well, but when neither Lenci nor Katie could finish theirs (it was so rich) yours truly helped them out. Hans, you would have died and gone to heaven. We'll go back someday, don't worry. 

what's left of my goulash - so hungry i forgot to take a pic first

pancakes

apple streudel

cappuccino with whipped cream

i'm so cute

3. Jazzy Jazz Jazz. Our first night in Prague, we stumbled off the alarmingly cold street into a small pub not far from the castle. On our way up to the bar, we saw a sign pointing downstairs that advertised a jazz band that was playing that very night. So of course, we went down to explore. It turned out we were an hour and a half early but we decided to stay and inevitably scored the best table. We settled into our booth, ordered a few beers, and waited for the band to arrive. I still can't believe our luck, the band was so incredible. Each musician was as talented as the next, but I was particularly wowed by the singer, for obvious reasons. Her voice was like velvet, so smooth and controlled but effortless at the same time. I'll see if I can upload a video. Anyways, it was a perfect first night in Prague.

love me some guiness

me and len

the best

blondie was the singer

4. CUZ! For those of you who weren't aware, my dear cousin Nate is studying in Prague this semester as well, so we finally managed to meet up on our last night at a pub called The Pub. Sounds a little hoity toity right? Like who says they get to call themselves that when there are more pubs in Prague than there are freckles on my face? WRONG. This place was cool, and they definitely have the right to their name. It had three floors, but the basement was full of booths that each had 4 beer taps in the middle of their table. At the back of the room was a huge scoreboard that kept a tally on how many beers each table had drank. It also switched to a screen that showed how The Pub ranked against other pubs in Prague. Being an avid beer fan and a naturally competitive person, I loved this idea. We all sat at one booth, my friends and Nate's. I was great to catch up with Nate, who I hadn't seen in years, and his friends were lovely as well. After we'd had our fill, we left to go to a club that had been renovated from a church and danced on a catwalk to house music. All in all, it was an awful night. I hated it. 

Still some lows..

1. Some Prahans (?) ripped us off. The meal we bought from the cute vendors on the side of the Old Town square charged us 800 krowns for our meal, when in reality it should have been something over 100. If this still sounds large to you, it's because the quantity of czech krowns, the currency of the Czech republic, is in no way comparable to that of the euro or dollar. This makes it super confusing to convert and hard to know how much you're paying for something, which is precisely why we had no idea until later that we payed about 50$ for a meal that should not ever have been that much. Still a delicious meal though, and worth it. 

2. The prohibition. Not the one in the 1920s where there were speak-easys and everything was glamorous. Some sick czechs decided to put methanol in some vodka and rum that people drank and subsequently went blind or died from. The result? No alcohol served or sold in all of the Czech republic besides beer and wine. This really isn't much of a low, it didn't impact me at all. In fact, it was kind of cool to be in Prague during an important historic event. Not to say that I don't appreciate the heartbreak of those affected by the poisoned alcohol and their families, however. 

Aaaaaand that's it. No more lows. That's how great Prague is. Seriously, go. 
We arrived home in Rome on Sunday evening and I collapsed in my bed without even unpacking. It was funny to think that coming back to my triple in Trastevere would ever feel like home because I still think of it as foreign, but somehow it did. Prague was the perfect end to a lovely vacation before the start of classes. I'll write a post about those another time.


But I'd like to end this post by saying that the biggest highlight of my trip by far was the girls that accompanied me. I am hard pressed to name a time in my life that I have laughed harder and more often than I did on this trip - my stomach is still a little sore. I am so lucky to have met these girls and I can't wait to share more adventures with them, whether they be during our semester in Rome or later in life. Good friends are hard to come by, but best friends are truly rare, and I know I have found that in these two :) 

Well FOOK it is way past my bedtime. I actually did end up devoting my night to this blog. Oh welp, it was worth it. 

Buonanotte, i miei bambini!  

PAZZO CAZZO

Sardinia. Or Sardegna. Still haven't figured that one out.

1. The beaches. Shocker, I know. They were some of the most beautiful I've ever seen with bright turquoise water that was so clear, I could see my feet in 4ft of water. I fully enjoyed goofing around out in the sun and looking out into the softly lapping azure waves, as well as the occasional rare beach hottie - mostly old men in speedos. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves though. Of the ocean, I mean.

hideous, am I right?

yuck.

cayoot

note: Claudyne in the background

sardinian beer

let me play my guitar on the beach

more gross

completely serious

grandpa katie

una buona notte

2. Marco and Alberto, two Sardinian locals we met at a bar on our second night. Our trip would not have been as enjoyable as it was had we not met them. They became our unofficial tour guides during our stay in Cagliari and took us to parts of the island we never would have seen. We were a little nervous to get in some strangers' cars but none of us got creepy vibes from them. Also, we jokingly went through every kidnapping scenario that we could think of in preparation so we all felt fine when they drove us to the beautiful Crudo beach. We had a great time exchanging different things about our cultures, languages, and ourselves (they spoke almost perfect English; you're kidding yourself if you thought I was speaking Italian). We were sad to say goodbye - them a little more than us, one of them fell hard for Katie - but we exchanged emails and promised to let them know if we ever visited Sardinia again.

Alberto (L) and Marco (R)

Marco - I don't know

Alberto skim boarding

3. SKINNY DIPPING. Yes, I did it. I can now check that box on my bucket list. It was our last evening in Sardinia and we were at a beach for a kite festival that Marco and Alberto had taken us to. Katie, Lenci and I had thought of doing it earlier in the day but we'd become distracted and forgot. As our group was leaving the beach around dusk, Lenci and I had fallen behind because I had trouble finding my shoes #blindgirlproblems. We started following but then Lenci turned to me and in a moment's decision, we ran back to the shore, stripped, and hopped in the deliciously warm water. Maybe it seems little to some of you, and maybe risque to others, but it was such a rush for me. It wasn't completely dark and the beach wasn't entirely deserted, so we had no idea if we had an audience. We'll never know. But it doesn't matter, because I'm so glad I did it. In that moment, I felt so free and it reminded me that life is too short to be worried about the consequences all the time. Sometimes, you've just got to get naked and swim on a public beach. 

No pictures of that. Perverts. 

4. Al Solito Posto. We got the recommendation from out hostel to this little pizzeria and it was awesome. I ordered la pizza quattro formaggi and second to skinny dipping, it was the best decision I made in Cagliari. Soooo cheesy and scrumptious. I ate the whole thing, not even ashamed. 

da place

CHEEESE GROMIT!

everyone look at my pizza and Lencis tatas

5. It felt like we spent weeks there when in reality is was only 4 days. The theory of island time is real, people. I forgot what day it was more than once. This was blissful in the beginning, but towards the end I think we all got a little tired of Sardinia.


And unfortunately, the lows.


1. My sickness. It more than outstayed it's welcome. I was a sniffly sneezing fit. But Katie said I was a champ, which is more than I can usually say for myself when I'm sick. Most of the time I wimp out on everything with the slightest sore throat. But there was no way I was going to stay in the hostel while my ladies got to sunbathe on the beach without me, so I stuck it out. And I'm glad I did. 

2. Creepy guy on the bus. Got a little too close and little too excited. I'll leave it at that. 

3. Cagliari wasn't the most beautiful city I've ever seen. It's not a dump by any means, but I've seen pictures of Sicily and Cinqueterre, and it's got nothing on them. But hey, you live and you learn.  

4. Beach vendors at Il Poetto beach. This was the first beach we went to and it was beautiful, but the men who bombarded us with jewelry, watches and sometimes whole racks of clothes while we were just trying to relax on the beach were comparable to incessant flies that no matter how many times you swat them away, keep coming back. One man even tried to tell me that I did in fact have money and that I did want to buy his fugly sweaters. First of all, why the hell would I want to buy a sweater in 80 degree weather on a beach? Second, they're all ugly! UGH. Alright, rant over.


I know there's almost more downsides than upsides in number, but don't get me wrong: Sardinia was beautiful and I'm so glad I went. I can't say I'll go back soon, but I'll cherish the time I spent there and only remember it fondly. 

<3

a precursor

Ok. I've put off writing these posts for too long now. This is due to a few reasons, but mostly it's because I feel like there's no way any post that I write will ever do my trip justice. I'm just not that good of a writer. But I guess it's time I gave it my best shot. Plus I know you are all dying of curiosity as to how it all went, and I can't possibly have you suffer at my expense.

The days before I left were spent in high anticipation of my departure.

My Italian final went pretty well, I think. I don't know for sure yet, because we haven't received our grades yet, but I felt confident about it. I could not celebrate all my hard work though because, to my dismay, that very same day I caught a nasty bug that had been floating around my apartment. I tried in vain to knock it out by being the world's biggest couch potato for the entire weekend (i.e., sleeping eating and watching movies on my computer), but I woke up the day of our departure still feeling like poop. There was no way I was going to let this ruin my trip though. So at 5am on Monday morning, I woke up sleepy and excited, and the five of us girls hopped in a cab to Fiumicino to catch our flight to Sardinia.

Since it would take me a week to describe each day in detail (and I'd probably kill myself before I even finished), I've decided to hit you with just the highlights and the lowlights. Also, I'm too busy PACKING FOR OKTOBERFEST!!!!...to devote my entire night to this blog.

But more on that later. Sardinia, comin atcha.

winding down

Tomorrow is the last day of my Italian practicum course. It's been bittersweet, because as much as I'm looking forward to my departure for Sardinia on Monday, I'm sad to say goodbye to Mario. For those of you with impaired memories, Mario has been my Italian professor these past three weeks. He's a gifted teacher who cares deeply for his students and their success in his class, while always keeping the atmosphere light with his sarcastic sense of humor (when one of us makes a mistake, he'll look up at the ceiling and say "please kill me" in his thick Italian accent). Even though we all continue learning Italian when our core classes start, the groups switch around to accommodate everyone's schedules, which means that I'm not sure whether Mario will be my professor anymore.
I don't think the other professors are bad, but I'm still crossing my fingers.

Yesterday I walked around the Pantheon after class. I hadn't been inside yet, but I'd walked by the formidable edifice on my way to other sights, so I decided to take a little tour by myself. It was nice to go at my own pace and not have to worry about going too fast/slow for my company, or losing them in the crowd. Afterwards, I wandered around the curving streets of the area and stopped into all kinds of different shops. Maybe you think I'm a loner, but don't knock it til you've tried it. I found it rewarding. I think next time I'll go solo to an art museum where I can really take my time with the pieces. Anyway, here's some pics and a little history for chu. 

       The Pantheon is considered one of Rome's oldest and most influential buildings. It    was created as a temple to honor Pagan gods and goddesses and built sometime between 118-125 AD. This unique circular structure was constructed by Hadrian, but the architecture is unknown. Inside, it holds the tombs of Victor Emmanuel II (the first king to rule a unified Italy), and his successor, Umberto I. The tomb of the famous artist Raphael is also here. Today it is used as a church, though the original use of the temple is still debated.

columns

interior 1

interior 2

interior 3

Madonna del Sasso above Raphael's tomb

high altar

the drain in the middle of the floor (they're all around the room)

looking up!

tomb of Victor Emmanuel II

your average Romans

wanders

15 cent. Egyptian obelisk, front of the parliament building

the last of the 16th century fountain designed by Giacomo della Porta

The Pantheon

FUN FACT: Antonella had told my tour that she visits the Pantheon when it snows in Rome, because it's a beautiful sight to behold when the snow falls inside through the hole at the top of the dome. I don't think it snows very often in Rome, but I certainly hope it does during my stay here.

Well I'm off to hit the books for my final exam tomorrow. 
'Derci!
xo 

p.s. I almost forgot: on my walk back home, I saw two Catholic priests "homie hug" in their full black dress garments. Just take a second to soak that in. I wish I'd caught a picture or video, but would you see that coming? It was definitely this week's highlight.

a change of pace

I spent this past Saturday on the small sheep farm of La Porta dei Parchi in the charming little village of Anversa degli Abruzzi. It was an Accent organized trip to tour the farm and the production of it's primary purpose, cheese. I'm sure those of you who know me well are unsurprised that I would choose to take this tour. Cheese is probably my favorite food group. Some of you may be nitpicking that it doesn't have it's own food group, it's in the dairy food group, yada yada yada. But I assert that it should. I love almost every form it comes in, from a thick creamy blue to a sharp New England cheddar, and I strongly believe it improves every savory dish out there. It's a love affair to say the least. 

So that morning I woke up at the buttcrack of dawn and lugged myself onto the bus to try myself some freshly made Italian cheese. We drove two hours outside of Rome and into the countryside of Lazio. Anversa degli Abruzzi is located within the Sagittario valley of Majella National Park and our bus driver took us all the way up the tiny and steep hill that the farm sits on, precarious winding dirt roads and all. We filed off the bus and were greeted by the jolly round farmer, Nunzio, the head of the farm. He led us to wait under his fig trees while our welcome meal was prepared and immediately began plucking figs right off of the trees for us. I had never seen or enjoyed a fresh fig before but I found them delicious. Next we enjoyed a late breakfast of pizza rossa, salami, and cheese made on the farm, after which we began the tour of the cheese-making process. 

Marco, our chaperone (left) and Nunzio (right)

late breakfast on the farm

We began with the barn that the sheep and goats are kept in, as well as the machine that the farmers use to milk them. It was just a regular barn, minus the dead pigeon that hung above the sheep pen to ward off fellow birds. It was a little unnerving but the sheep were adorable. They were mostly concerned with eating their hay, but every so often one of them would trot over to investigate the large group of students watching them. 

 
Nunzio then led us to the kitchen - for lack of a better word - where they turn the sheep's milk into cheese. I'll spare the details for those of you who wish to keep eating cheese, but I found it fascinating anyways. Nunzio and his cheese cooking friend demonstrated the steps of the process and described the alterations that differentiate each cheese. We even were given a taste of the first cheese form, which tastes much like what I expect solid sheep milk would taste like. I can't say I cared for it much, but it was still fascinating. It makes me wonder how and when humankind got the idea of making cheese. I should investigate that. 

Mr. Cheese

cheese in it's first form

Once the tour was over, Nunzio led us behind the barn where there was a beautiful view of the Sagittario valley. There were also some more animal pens. Most of them were empty and some held pigs, but one held two puppies of the several sheep dogs that roam around the farm. They were ca-yoootttt, so of course we all took turns holding them and taking pictures. Here's a couple of the hundred that I took. 

Once everyone had had enough puppy love, we lazed about under the fig trees, visited  other animals or picked tomatoes from the garden while our lunch was prepared. It was lovely to be a guest of such hospitable people and in such a beautiful place too. The weather was a heavenly 75 degrees with a slight breeze, and the surrounding landscape was breathtaking. I now understand why the majority of Italians live in the countryside. It's a beautiful way of life, whether you live on a sheep farm or just in a residential town. 

Nunzio and a baby donkey

Katie hated the figs

The lunch was, I must admit, disappointing. It began with several different cheeses the farm produced, only three of which I liked, with three different salamis and an apple marmalade. Next we were served some mediocre pastas, followed by a mysterious meat course. The dessert was a panna cotta drizzled with some kind of fruit syrup, but it must have been made with sheep's milk because it tasted a lot like the cheeses that began the meal. I didn't care for it. 

mystery meats (yech)

And yet the trip was not a letdown by any means. We finished our trip by walking down the hill into the town's center, half of which was built on the side of the neighboring mountains. The little houses were old but quaint and well kept, and they were huddled close together with steep narrow stairs snaking between them. Several people came out of their doors or peeped out their windows to greet Nunzio as he led us through his delightful little hometown. I got the feeling that everyone knew everyone in Anversa degli Abruzzi and it was endearing to see such a close knit community. It was such a strong juxtaposition to Rome, where no one smiles at each other and everything moves so fast. That said, I think I'm much more of a city girl than a country girl, but the experience was oh so refreshing. 

  
At midafternoon, we said our goodbyes to Nunzio and Anversa degli Abruzzi, and traipsed lazily back to the bus. I slept the whole way home, and it was marvelous. A marvelous end to a marvelous day.

real life.